Cathedral - day 1
Park map again for reference. Actual route in/out is green slime colour. Intended route (where different) is orange. Start/end point is the star at the top right. Direction is clockwise.

So here was the plan.
- Take 1.5 days to hike in the looong way (32km) to the core, camping at some alpine lakes along the way.
- Do a day trip within the core on day 2.
- Do a long day trip in the core on day 3.
- Hike out the short way (16km) on day 4.
Pretty straightforward.
Day 1. Broke camp and drove about 10km to the Ewart Creek Trailhead. The Lakeview trail to the park's core is 16km long and can be done in a short day, but we wanted to go in another route and come back out via Lakeview. So we parked the car at Ewart, knowing we'd have to trudge back to the car on day 4, as the trailheads are about 10km apart.
At the Ewart trailhead were a number of horse trailers. A few guys were preparing their horses for a ride in. Horse riding into the mountains and to the area east of the park is fairly common.
Raring to go. Estimated pack weight: 80 lbs between the two of us.
The trail was very dusty and the day was fairly warm. It eventually reached 28 degrees.
Just over an hour in, while crossing a creek I noticed some lovely driftwood that would work well as walking sticks, so I retrieved two specimens. Around this point the horse party from the trailhead caught up to us.
The lads was totin' guns, ready fer b'ars 'n' catamounts 'n' other varmints what prowls these parts. Or just for hunting mountain sheep... whatever. Last thing the guy says to me is "Watch out for bears, haha!" I almost wished I had me a gun.
So, not 10 minutes later, Carrie pointed out our first wildlife. Yeah, a stinkin' bear. And he was too obscured for me to be sure it was just a black bear either. I wasn't too thrilled about non-black-bear presence, so I chose to get out of there rather than get some nice photos and risk letting him see us. He was busy mauling some leaves a ways away, and I was happy to keep it that way. (I've chased black bears in my youth, but I have a healthier respect for other types.) I was armed with a can of bear spray, but it's good for about 1.5 bears, so I wasn't prepared to use it all up this early into the trip.
Three hours after heading south along the edge of the park, we were already a bit sore. Carrie was developing some serious blisters, so stops were becoming longer and more frequent. We went through duct tape, moleskin and blister packs like it was going out of style. Finally we got to a main bridge where the trail heads west into the park. We stopped for lunch there, preparing for a brutal climb.
Carrie's feet only got worse, and my knee started aching. We were quite the aging, unfit pair, limping up the mountainside, running low on water, wondering what we'd gotten ourselves into. It didn't help that the supposedly well-marked trail wasn't always such. One is supposed to find orange markers on the occasional tree, to supplement the well-worn trail. Well, in various places, the markers were plentiful when the trail was evident, but scarce when the trail disappeared. We lost the trail a number of times, but casting about for a bit eventually got us back on track soon enough.
No trail, but at least the scenery is decent.
If you'll consult the map, we were planning to strike out further south and camp at Haystack Lakes the first night. However, the trail we were on was supposed to be well-marked, while the trail to Haystack Lakes required route-finding skills. Seeing as we got lost often enough on the "marked" trail, it would be less than wise to veer off it. Fortunately, it wasn't even clear where to turn off to head south, so that settled it anyways.
We decided that we should instead camp at the Twin Buttes campsite. But 5 hours after leaving our lunch spot (3.5 of trudging plus 1.5 of resting/foot-treating) there was no sign of a campground and we were simply too tired to go any further. We found a small creek in a clearing and pitched the tent there. Actually, this was after trying to locate the trail which disappeared as soon as it hit the clearing. Camping spot: around the 2nd star on the map (bottom right-ish).
While I went to hang the food a ways downwind, I encountered a lovely looking deer. Unfortunately I had no camera with me, so no evidence of that.
We were too tired to heat up a meal, so we crashed by 8pm and slept 12 hours...
