Vienna
We spent last week Thursday until this past Monday in Vienna, Austria. Our previous visit to Austria was three years ago; it was unfortunate we didn't make it to Vienna that time, it being significantly farther east than we were prepared to go.
Carrie had to work in Geneva, after which she took a night train to Vienna. I flew to Vienna from Ottawa and met up with her. More precisely, my itinerary had me taking a bus to Montreal (I was one of only two passengers on the Swiss International Airlines coach to Montreal... roomy!) From Montreal to Zurich, then to Vienna.
We expected rain for the duration of our stay, but it rained only one day and a bit. Of course temperatures were in the single digits, and it was overcast and breezy almost the whole time, but overall that was better than first expected.
The food is great, if a little expensive. Vienna is not a cheap city, especially if you're staying in the first (central) district. Let's just say we didn't go there to make money...
Carrie had booked a hotel before she convinced me to come along. Once I was in the picture, we had to book a second hotel. On Saturday we made our way on the tram from the one hotel to the other, towing all our luggage. As we stepped off the tram near our destination, Carrie asked "Do you have the backpack?" Such a simple query. The answer was equally simple: "Aw, crap!" I was off immediately, chasing a rapidly departing tram. (I haven't run so fast in some time, and I felt it in my lungs for many hours later.) I was fortunate that the next tram stop was only a block or two further, and equally fortunate that the tram had a reason to stop there. So, all was well and Carrie's passport and wallet didn't spend the day touring Vienna alone. Phew...
My first meal: Wiener Schnitzel. (Nice big slab of veal.) It doesn't get more local than that.
Other local cuisine we enjoyed included sauerkraut and goulash...
...and Sachertorte, a famous Austrian chocolate cake. The original Sachertorte is made only in Salzburg and Vienna; we enjoyed ours in the cafe of the Hotel Sacher.
We'd had some ideas of concerts to attend, including a performance of Mozart's Requiem Mass and a concert by the Vienna Boys' Choir, but neither of these panned out. We did attend a concert at the Hofburg Imperial Palace. It largely targeted tourists and was quite entertaining... and it didn't break the bank.
Christmas was in the air in the city. There were many "Christmas villages" set up throughout the city; these are made up of little booths where various local or handmade goods are sold. Also popular are varying flavours of Weihnachtspunsch... Christmas punch, and yes it's spiked. It was hot and cider-y, but far too strong for our taste.
The main Christmas village downtown was at city hall, and it all looked quite nice after dark.
The largest Christmas village overall is outside of downtown, at the imperial Schönbrunn Palace. We went there on a weekend and it was very busy.
Friends -- not including the deer-in-headlights person on the left.
At Schönbrunn Palace.
The back of the palace. This is from a fountain only halfway down the grounds... it's a pretty big place.
Decorations downtown were being put up already, making for a nice atmosphere at night.
Right in the centre of the city is a plaza containing St. Stephen's Cathedral. It's an imposing building but not easy to photograph, partly due to the proximity of other buildings and partly because it's under construction and has fake facades hanging all over it.
Vienna has a plethora of beautiful old buildings, making it much more delightful to walk through than a city like Geneva. I won't bore you with any more architectural photos; it's better if you would just go there yourself.
Our most disappointing event was when we went to see the world-famous Lipizzaner horses at the Spanish Riding School. One can pay $35 to see a real show or $17 to see a two-hour training session. Being Dutch, we opted for the latter. Well, what a rip-off that turned out to be! They didn't practice tricks or formations or anything; for two hours, five horses jogged or walked around the ring while classical music played in a depressingly unrelated fashion. Someone could have told us the horses had to practice walking... grumble grumble.
Vienna is (apparently) known for coffee and chocolate. Between Geneva and Vienna, we came home with a healthy supply of coffees, sugars, chocolates and marzipan. Merry Christmas, us!
The trip home was great for me, less great for Carrie. She had a cold, and the pressure on her ears was too much after our descent into Montreal. She was supposed to fly into Ottawa from there, but she wasn't going to tolerate another flight. So she joined me on the bus instead.
She was travelling business class for work, and for the Zurich-Montreal flight she kindly swapped tickets with me. I'm not sure I ever want to fly economy ever again... did you know that there are actually seats with leg room?! I could stretch out fully and not bother the two rows in front of me. Awesome!
Oh yeah, one other not-so-bright moment. Don't jam your laptop into your checked luggage, as the screen is likely to get mangled. Oops. Time to buy a new one (we were about to anyway, so this just helped us along).
